{"id":4748,"date":"2022-10-28T06:56:56","date_gmt":"2022-10-28T06:56:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/?p=4748"},"modified":"2022-11-29T06:59:58","modified_gmt":"2022-11-29T06:59:58","slug":"annapurna-circuit-osa-4-solan-toisella-puolen-eli-muktinath-marpha","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/annapurna-circuit-osa-4-solan-toisella-puolen-eli-muktinath-marpha\/","title":{"rendered":"Annapurna circuit (osa 4): Solan toisella puolen eli Muktinath &#8211; Marpha"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Kuten sanottu, maisema Thorong La -solan toisella puolella oli kuiva ja karu, useat kyl\u00e4t keskiaikaisia ja tunnelma mystinen. Ensimm\u00e4iset pari p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4ll\u00e4 puolen sis\u00e4lsiv\u00e4t j\u00e4nnityst\u00e4 jyrkill\u00e4 kanjonin reunamilla ja v\u00e4h\u00e4n ep\u00e4onneakin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Aikaisemmat blogipostaukset vaelluksestamme Annapurnan rengasreitill\u00e4 l\u00f6yd\u00e4t t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/annapurna-circuit-osa-1-besishahar-chame\/\" target=\"_blank\">Osa 1: Besishahar &#8211; Chame<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/annapurna-circuit-osa-2-chame-manang\/\" target=\"_blank\">Osa 2: Chame &#8211; Manang<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/piipahdus-maailman-korkeimmalla-sijaitsevalle-jaatikkojarvelle-tilicho-lake\/\" target=\"_blank\">Koukkaus Tilicho-j\u00e4rvelle<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/annapurna-circuit-osa-3-yak-kharka-muktinath-ranipauwa\/\" target=\"_blank\">Osa 3: Solan ylitys<\/a> (5416m)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240841-scaled.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4769\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Upeat n\u00e4kym\u00e4t Ranipauwan kyl\u00e4st\u00e4!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">P\u00e4iv\u00e4 13: Muktinath (Ranipauwa) &#8211; Kagbeni <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Her\u00e4simme ennen kuutta (rytmi aamuher\u00e4tyksist\u00e4 oli j\u00e4\u00e4nyt p\u00e4\u00e4lle), s\u00f6imme aamupalan ja l\u00e4hdimme kiert\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n n\u00e4ht\u00e4vyyksi\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4762\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?w=2560&amp;ssl=1 2560w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C864&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240806-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Hevoset odottelivat kuskattavia turisteja bussiaseman l\u00e4hettyvill\u00e4 v\u00e4rikk\u00e4iss\u00e4 pukimissa <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ensiksi kiertelimme kyl\u00e4\u00e4 ja nousimme suurelle kultaiselle buddhapatsaalle. Patsaan luona paikalliset suorittivat aamurukousta, sytyttiv\u00e4t suitsukkeita ja toistelivat mantraa rukousrullia py\u00f6ritt\u00e4ess\u00e4\u00e4n. Buddha sai nousevan auringon s\u00e4teist\u00e4 kultaisen kimmellyksen. Ymp\u00e4r\u00f6iv\u00e4t vuoret olivat majesteettiset ja aamussa oli taikaa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024095743.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4764\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Shaligrammeja myynniss\u00e4 Ranipauwan kadulla<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C864&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=2048%2C1152&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=500%2C281&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=800%2C450&amp;ssl=1 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=1280%2C720&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?resize=1920%2C1080&amp;ssl=1 1920w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240820-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Buddha odottelee auringon l\u00e4mp\u00f6\u00e4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240824.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4775\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Buddhan tuijotus <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024092504.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4768\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Katajan oksia poltettiin temppeleiden edustalla rukouksien tueksi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Buddhapatsaalta laskeuduimme kyl\u00e4n raitille ja t\u00f6rm\u00e4simme paikallisiin vaelluskavereihimme, jotka olivat my\u00f6s suuntaamassa Muktinathin temppelialueelle. Saimme heist\u00e4 hyv\u00e4t oppaat!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024091400.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4766\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Muktinathin temppelialueella oli vilin\u00e4\u00e4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Muktinath on ilmeisesti yksi nelj\u00e4st\u00e4 hindujen Vishnu-pyhiinvaelluskohteista ja pyhiinvaelluskohde my\u00f6s buddhalaisuudessa. Ihmiset uskovat, ett\u00e4 koskettamalla temppelialueen vesisuihkuja, vett\u00e4 joka siis suihkuaa 108 lehm\u00e4np\u00e4\u00e4patsaan suusta, ja uimalla kahdessa altaassa (j\u00e4\u00e4kylm\u00e4\u00e4 vett\u00e4) puhdistautuu <strong>pahasta karmasta<\/strong>. Lis\u00e4ksi alueella olevassa temppeliss\u00e4 palaa ikuinen liekki ja t\u00e4ten my\u00f6s buddhalaisille t\u00e4rke\u00e4t elementit ovat kaikki temppeliss\u00e4 l\u00e4sn\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240867-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4773\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pyh\u00e4\u00e4 vett\u00e4 virtaa suihkuina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Alue oli upea, se huokui mystiikkaa ja talvista tunnelmaa, kun lehdet olivat jo puista pudonneet. Hindutemppelin ja vesisuihkujen hulinasta p\u00e4\u00e4si rauhoittumaan buddhalaispyh\u00e4t\u00f6n rauhaan ja sielt\u00e4 jatkoimme ihailemaan mustanpuhuvaa, istuvaa buddhaa, joka katsoi kohti Dhaulagirin vuoristoa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4755\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C864&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=2048%2C1152&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=500%2C281&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=800%2C450&amp;ssl=1 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=1280%2C720&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?resize=1920%2C1080&amp;ssl=1 1920w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240896-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Buddha katselee vuoria &#8211; taustalla Dhaulagiri <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Aamun n\u00e4ht\u00e4vyyskiertely hieman ven\u00e4hti, joten l\u00e4hdimme pikaisesti suuntaamaan kohti Kagbeni\u00e4. Sinne oli muutamakin eri reitti, mutta solan ylityksest\u00e4 v\u00e4synein\u00e4 ei innostanut ainakaan menn\u00e4 kanjonin toiselle puolelle, jossa matkaa (ja ilmeisesti nousu- ja laskumetrej\u00e4) kertyisi reippaasti enemm\u00e4n kuin autotien puoleisella reitill\u00e4. Pist\u00e4ydyimme kuitenkin matkalla keskiaikaisessa Jharkotin kyl\u00e4ss\u00e4, miss\u00e4 meit\u00e4 ihmetytti se, kuinka kyl\u00e4n rakennukset olivat p\u00e4\u00e4osin yh\u00e4 asuttuja, vaikka vaikuttivat olevan yht\u00e4 vaatimattomia kuin silloin keskiajalla. Vaikuttava kokemus kulkea pitkin sokkeloisia pikkukujia! Ja ylip\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 tiens\u00e4 ulos kyl\u00e4st\u00e4 \ud83d\ude05<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4780\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?w=2560&amp;ssl=1 2560w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C864&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240908-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jharkotin keskiaikainen kyl\u00e4, jossa muinaisen luostarin rauniot <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1144\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1144&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4793\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?resize=1155%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1155w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024110149-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Keskiaikaisen kyl\u00e4n kujilla <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024112747.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4784\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mystinen (rikkipitoinen?) lampi keskell\u00e4 viljelyksi\u00e4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>S\u00f6imme lounasta autotien varrella mukavan oloisessa majatalossa &#8211; ehk\u00e4 parhaat mo:mo:t t\u00e4h\u00e4n menness\u00e4! Em\u00e4nt\u00e4 k\u00e4vi hakemassa tuoreet vihannekset t\u00e4ytteeksi omalta kasvimaalta ja omenamehukin surautettiin juuripoimituista oman puutarhan omenista. Ostettiin heilt\u00e4 parit kuivatut omenasiivut v\u00e4lipalaksi ja omituista kuivattua jakkijuustoa. Ja se oli tosiaan <em>kuivattua<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024123652.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4756\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Herkullinen mo:mo: ateria<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jakkijuustotikkuja imeskellen l\u00e4hdimme kohti tuntematonta er\u00e4maata. Kanjonin sein\u00e4t nousivat vastakkaisella rinteell\u00e4, joki virtasi alhaalla ja autotie jatkoi matkaansa toista rinnett\u00e4 yl\u00f6s. Me seurasimme opaskylttej\u00e4 ja laskeuduimme jyrkk\u00e4\u00e4 rinnett\u00e4 l\u00e4hemm\u00e4s jokea kanjoniin. Onneksi olimme sy\u00f6neet lounaan matkalla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1144\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1144&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4788\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?resize=1155%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1155w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130346-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jakkijuustotikku<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1144\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1144&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4790\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?resize=1155%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1155w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024130823-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Meneek\u00f6 se polku siell\u00e4 jossain?? Ainakin tielt\u00e4 oli opasteet t\u00e4h\u00e4n suuntaan&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024133653.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4779\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jyrk\u00e4n laskun j\u00e4lkeen takaisin ei haluaisi k\u00e4\u00e4nty\u00e4 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>K\u00e4velimme yksiksemme noin kolmisen kilometri\u00e4, v\u00e4lill\u00e4 eritt\u00e4in kuumottavia jyrk\u00e4nnepolkuja pitkin niin, ett\u00e4 vain toiselle jalalle oli polulla tilaa (ja pudotusta tietysti useampi kymmenen metri\u00e4 joelle). Ep\u00e4ilimme useasti reittivalintaa, mutta edess\u00e4 n\u00e4kyi jalanj\u00e4lki\u00e4, mik\u00e4 oli hyv\u00e4 merkki. Kunnes jalanj\u00e4ljet alkoivat tulla meit\u00e4 vastaan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024141227.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4765\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ensimm\u00e4inen maanvy\u00f6rykohta tuli eteen ja p\u00e4\u00e4simme siit\u00e4 jotenkuten yli. Julle meni edelt\u00e4 katsomaan polun kuntoa ja nopeasti kehoitti pys\u00e4htym\u00e4\u00e4n: &#8220;\u00c4l\u00e4 tule pidemm\u00e4lle, on k\u00e4\u00e4nnytt\u00e4v\u00e4 takaisin&#8221; &#8211; polku oli sortunut kokonaan maanvy\u00f6ryss\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ei hitsi! Mit\u00e4s ihmett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 nyt teht\u00e4isiin&#8230; Joen vierelle oli useamman metrin pudotus ilman sopivaa alasmenopaikkaa, maanvy\u00f6rykohdan ylitt\u00e4minen oli liian pelottavaa isojen rinkkojen kanssa ja takaisin tielle oli yli 3km jyrkk\u00e4\u00e4 (ja aika ep\u00e4miellytt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4) yl\u00f6skiipe\u00e4mist\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote\"><blockquote><p>Nyt otti p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n. Olisi vain pit\u00e4nyt menn\u00e4 tiet\u00e4 pitkin, vaikka se tyls\u00e4\u00e4 olikin! Miten t\u00e4ll\u00e4isen reitin alussa ei ollut sen huonosta kunnosta mit\u00e4\u00e4n varoitusta?? <\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1529\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1529&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4791\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?w=1440&amp;ssl=1 1440w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=576%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 576w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1365&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=864%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 864w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=1152%2C2048&amp;ssl=1 1152w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=500%2C889&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024134214_01-scaled.jpg?resize=800%2C1422&amp;ssl=1 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">&#8220;Sky caves&#8221; tai &#8220;Mustang caves&#8221; nimell\u00e4 n\u00e4it\u00e4 ilmeisesti kutsutaan &#8211; mystiset luolat kanjonin sein\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>L\u00e4hdimme takaisin, ehk\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4sisimme joen toiselta puolelta etenem\u00e4\u00e4n (olimme ohittaneet riippusillan mystisten kanjonin sein\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 olevien luolien kohdalla). Siin\u00e4 takaisinp\u00e4in k\u00e4velless\u00e4mme vastaan tuli brittipariskunta &#8211; JES! SAIMME SEURAA! Ratkaisua oli paljon mukavampi pohtia yhdess\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pariskunta vaikutti pelottomalta, sortuneen polun ylitt\u00e4misen sijaan p\u00e4\u00e4dyimme yhdess\u00e4 yritt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n laskeutumista joen vierelle. Onneksi l\u00f6ysimme sopivan rinteen, mist\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4simme alas. Jokea hetken seurattuamme p\u00e4\u00e4simme takaisin yl\u00f6s polulle ja muutaman kuumottavan kohdan j\u00e4lkeen alkoi vehre\u00e4mpi osuus. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1147\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1147&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4753\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?resize=1152%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1152w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024142445-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Joen vierell\u00e4 &#8211; oikealla oleva polku oli sortunut pois, mutta jatkui edess\u00e4p\u00e4in<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Paimenen ja vuohien jalanj\u00e4ljet opastivat meit\u00e4 eteenp\u00e4in. En muista, milloin viimeksi olisin ollut niin onnellinen n\u00e4hdess\u00e4ni puita &#8211; ne jotenkin rauhoittivat mielt\u00e4 ja huokuivat turvallisuudentunnetta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024143614.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4759\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Kohti Kagbeni\u00e4 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024143046.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4770\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Kasteluj\u00e4rjestelm\u00e4n varrella kasvoi runsaasti puita<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Kagbeni-sein\u00e4maalaus kertoi kaupungin olevan l\u00e4hell\u00e4. Ylitimme parit viljelysmaat ja p\u00e4\u00e4simme vihdoin tielle, ilmeisesti kunnantalon takapihan kautta puikkelehtien. Sortuneiden polkujen j\u00e4nnitysn\u00e4ytelm\u00e4 oli ohitse! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Seuraavat sekunnit olivatkin sitten kuin hidastetusta kohtauksesta. Asettelin jalkani huonosti askeltaessa ja tunsin kallistuvani eteenp\u00e4in. Ehdin \u00e4l\u00e4ht\u00e4\u00e4, Julle k\u00e4\u00e4nty\u00e4 katsomaan ja *TUMPS* olin maassa naamallani. <em>Naamallani.<\/em> Kunnon mahapl\u00e4tsi. Lippiksen lippa otti suurimman t\u00e4rskyn, sitten nen\u00e4, joka oli verill\u00e4. Hetken pohdin, olisiko se murtunut. Kaikkialla oli verta, r\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4 ja p\u00f6ly\u00e4&#8230; Ihme, ett\u00e4 aurinkolasit selvisiv\u00e4t rikkoontumatta!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"577\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=577%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 577w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1364&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=865%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 865w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=1153%2C2048&amp;ssl=1 1153w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=500%2C888&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=800%2C1421&amp;ssl=1 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?resize=1280%2C2274&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG_20221121_173034-scaled.jpg?w=1441&amp;ssl=1 1441w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 577px) 100vw, 577px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ensimm\u00e4inen arvioitava asia tapahtuman j\u00e4lkeen: Eih\u00e4n kukaan n\u00e4hnyt? (Parempi siis siirty\u00e4 istumaan &#8220;kuin pit\u00e4isin vain taukoa&#8221; tien reunalle, ettei nyt kukaan ihmettelisi mit\u00e4 on k\u00e4ynyt).&nbsp;Mist\u00e4k\u00f6h\u00e4n t\u00e4llainen ajattelu juontaa juurensa? \ud83d\ude02<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u00e4\u00e4dyimme siihen lopputulokseen, ett\u00e4 mit\u00e4\u00e4n ei murtunut, pieni\u00e4 pintaruhjeita vain ja mahdollinen liev\u00e4 aivot\u00e4r\u00e4hdys. Tosin ulkomuoto t\u00e4ll\u00e4 vaeltajalla oli kuin mill\u00e4kin kerj\u00e4l\u00e4isell\u00e4, vaatteet aivan tomusta likaiset, samoin naama ja k\u00e4det, tosin vaatteet p\u00e4\u00e4osin (yll\u00e4tt\u00e4en) ehj\u00e4t. L\u00e4hdimme etsim\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4hint\u00e4 hotellia, miss\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4sisi hieman siistiytym\u00e4\u00e4n ja kysym\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4himm\u00e4n l\u00e4\u00e4k\u00e4riaseman sijaintia. Katseita tuli tietysti ker\u00e4tty\u00e4, ihmiset hotellilla olivat p\u00e4\u00e4osin oikein avuliaita. P\u00e4\u00e4timme kuitenkin jatkaa siistiytymisen j\u00e4lkeen matkaa l\u00e4hemm\u00e4s kyl\u00e4n keskustaa ja etsi\u00e4 sielt\u00e4 (ei niin kolkkoa) majapaikkaa. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1144\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1144&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?resize=1155%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1155w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025065546-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Nepalissa ei ole m\u00e4kk\u00e4ri\u00e4, mutta j\u00e4kk\u00e4ri l\u00f6ytyy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Kagbeni vaikutti olevan hieman kalliimpi majoitukseltaan kuin edelliset paikat, mutta nyt vain oli l\u00f6ydett\u00e4v\u00e4 majapaikka ja nopeasti. Kolmen\/nelj\u00e4n majatalon j\u00e4lkeen p\u00e4\u00e4dyimme lopulta klassiseen Yak donaldsiin. Aulassa paikalle sattunut moottoripy\u00f6r\u00e4poppoon l\u00e4\u00e4k\u00e4ri tuli kyselem\u00e4\u00e4n vointiani ja rauhoitteli t\u00e4t\u00e4 v\u00e4synytt\u00e4 loukkaantunutta. Sain m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4yksen k\u00e4yd\u00e4 suihkussa, juoda paljon vett\u00e4 ja sy\u00f6d\u00e4 hyvin (jos jossain, niin Yak donaldsissa se onnistuisi!), sen j\u00e4lkeen vain lev\u00e4t\u00e4. H\u00e4n olisi paikalla, jos apua tarvittaisiin, eik\u00e4 h\u00e4nen mielest\u00e4\u00e4n viel\u00e4 ollut aihetta hakeutua terkkariin. Olo helpotti heti ja p\u00f6hn\u00e4 meni ohi, kun s\u00f6i ja joi kunnolla vett\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221024172024.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4783\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Happy Meal makes you happy \ud83d\ude0a<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4796\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=1152%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1152w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C2048&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=500%2C667&amp;ssl=1 500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?resize=800%2C1067&amp;ssl=1 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?w=1920&amp;ssl=1 1920w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG202210241928547E2-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sellaista t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa. Onneksi ei k\u00e4ynyt pahemmin!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ett\u00e4 semmoinen episodi, kunnon &#8220;\u00e4ksidentti&#8221; t\u00e4h\u00e4n v\u00e4liin. Onni onnettomuudessa, ettei askel livennyt kapeilla poluilla kanjonin jyrk\u00e4nteell\u00e4! Olin varmaan ollut niin huojentunut p\u00e4\u00e4stess\u00e4ni k\u00e4velem\u00e4\u00e4n tiet\u00e4 pitkin, etten en\u00e4\u00e4 kiinnitt\u00e4nyt riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti askeleisiin huomiota ja v\u00e4syneet jalat tekiv\u00e4t omiaan. Askelluksesta (erityisesti kivikkoisella tiell\u00e4) tuli t\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen paljon harkitumpaa (ja siis entist\u00e4 hitaampaa).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">P\u00e4iv\u00e4 14: Kagbeni &#8211; Jomsom &#8211; Marpha<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025064656.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4758\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Luostari Kagbeniss\u00e4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Her\u00e4simme aikaisin (olinhan mennyt nukkumaan joskus seitsem\u00e4n aikaan) ja l\u00e4hdimme kiertelem\u00e4\u00e4n Kagbenin vanhaa kaupunkia ennen aamupalaa, se kun j\u00e4i eilen <em>jostain syyst\u00e4<\/em> n\u00e4kem\u00e4tt\u00e4. Kaupunki oli vieh\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4, samanlainen kuin aikaisemmin reitille osunut Jharkot. T\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 oli eritt\u00e4in vanha ja merkitt\u00e4v\u00e4 tiibetinbuddhalainen luostari, jossa liuta pikkumunkkeja juuri vapautui aamuhartaudesta. Lis\u00e4ksi Kagbeniss\u00e4 oli paljon erilaisia el\u00e4imi\u00e4 karsinoissaan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025064102.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4782\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Aamupalan j\u00e4lkeen l\u00e4hdimme k\u00e4velem\u00e4\u00e4n kohti Jomsomia ja Marphaa. Niska ja p\u00e4\u00e4 olivat viel\u00e4 hieman kipe\u00e4t eilisest\u00e4 t\u00e4llist\u00e4 ja nen\u00e4 vuosi r\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4 solkenaan. Koko p\u00e4iv\u00e4n niiskutettuani totesin, ett\u00e4 ehk\u00e4 olinkin vain allerginen jollekin kasville t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 p\u00e4in. Ainakin solan toisella puolella oli kasvanut paljon pujoa, joten eik\u00f6h\u00e4n t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4kin joku siitep\u00f6ly pist\u00e4nyt r\u00f6\u00f6rit tukkoon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025080850.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4781\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Matka Jomsomiin oli tomuinen, onneksi osa siit\u00e4 meni joen pohjalla shaligrammeja (fossiileja) etsien. Saatiin pari koiraa matkaseuraksi ja nimettiin ne &#8220;Rubyksi&#8221; ja &#8220;Hipuksi&#8221;. Koiria seuraillessa missasimme joen yli menev\u00e4n k\u00e4velytien, jota pitkin olisimme p\u00e4\u00e4sseet hieman nopeammin lounaalle. Nooh&#8230; Jomsomissa oli tarkoitus pit\u00e4\u00e4 vain lyhyt breikki: leimata ACAP-luvat, sy\u00f6d\u00e4 lounas, nostaa rahaa (alueen ainoat ATM:t oli t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, joista vain osasta sai oikeasti ulkomaisella kortilla rahaa ulos) ja ostaa apteekista k\u00e4sidesi\u00e4 ja vedenpuhdistustabletteja&#8230; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025092141.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4757\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Kiitos k\u00e4ynnist\u00e4 ja tervetuloa uudelleen!\ud83e\udd2d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>No, eip\u00e4 ollut nopea pys\u00e4hdys. \u00c4rsytys alkoi vaivata niin t\u00e4t\u00e4 t\u00e4llip\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4 kuin matkaseuraakin, kun toimivaa pankkiautomaattia ei l\u00f6ytynyt ja ravintolatkin olivat p\u00e4\u00e4osin kiinni (Tihar-festivaali taisi vaikuttaa aukioloihin). Kun vihdoin saimme tilattua ruokaa, sen valmistumisessa kesti ikuisuus. P\u00e4iv\u00e4 kuumeni. Koristellut talojen sis\u00e4\u00e4nk\u00e4ynnit ja koirat kukkaseppeleiss\u00e4 tekiv\u00e4t \u00e4rsyyntyneisiin ja v\u00e4syneisiin vaeltajiin vain pienen vaikutuksen (Lis\u00e4\u00e4 Tiharin vietosta voit lukea aikaisemmasta postauksestani <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/dashain-ja-tihar-festivaalit-nepalissa\/\" target=\"_blank\">t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4<\/a>.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ruoka v\u00e4hensi vain v\u00e4h\u00e4n \u00e4rsytyst\u00e4, matka Jomsomista Marphaan oli yht\u00e4 tuskaa. En ihmettele, ett\u00e4 kaikki suosittelevat ottamaan bussin\/jeepin t\u00e4lle p\u00e4tk\u00e4lle. Varsinkin kun koko kroppaa kolotti, ei t\u00e4m\u00e4 vaelluksen osuus ollut mitenk\u00e4\u00e4n nautinnollinen. Tuuli laaksossa yltyi, kuten se ilmeisesti teki p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in klo 10 j\u00e4lkeen. Nyt tuuli oli kuitenkin sen verran tuima (ja aamulla v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4st\u00e4 suunnasta), ett\u00e4 lennot Jomsomista Pokharaan oli peruttu t\u00e4lt\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4lt\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025133815.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4778\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Marphan mutkassa oli vehre\u00e4\u00e4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025142833.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4767\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Marpha <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Kun lopulta saavuimme iltap\u00e4iv\u00e4ll\u00e4 Marphaan, se oli kuin suojassa oleva paratiisi. Tuuli ei tosin laantunut, mutta Tanpopo-hotellin puutarhassa se ei haitannut. Marpha oli siisti, mukavan kokoinen kyl\u00e4, joka toivotti meid\u00e4t l\u00e4mpim\u00e4sti tervetulleeksi lukuisilla omenaherkuillansa. Kaoottisen ja tuskaisen p\u00e4iv\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen p\u00e4\u00e4timme nopeasti rentoutuvamme seuraavan p\u00e4iv\u00e4n t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 &#8211; v\u00e4lip\u00e4iv\u00e4 oli todellakin tarpeen. Saimme pesty\u00e4 pyykki\u00e4 ja palkitsemme itsemme herkullisella omenapiirakalla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"770\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4787\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221025152858-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 770px) 100vw, 770px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Omnomnomomenapiirakka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"1144\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C1144&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?w=1925&amp;ssl=1 1925w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?resize=770%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C1021&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?resize=1155%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 1155w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111238-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Samaan aikaan hotellissa y\u00f6pyi maastopy\u00f6r\u00e4jengi ja heid\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeens\u00e4 oli paljon pyyk\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 ja tiskattavaa. Terassilla kaikki onneksi kuivui nopeasti \u2600\ufe0f<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">P\u00e4iv\u00e4 15: Marpha (v\u00e4lip\u00e4iv\u00e4)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"484\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A260947-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C484&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4774\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A260947-scaled.jpg?w=2560&amp;ssl=1 2560w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A260947-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A260947-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Huilip\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 vain s\u00f6imme ja kiertelimme kyl\u00e4\u00e4. K\u00e4vimme luostarissa, n\u00e4k\u00f6alakukkulalla (t\u00e4ytyyh\u00e4n sit\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n jotain nousuja tehd\u00e4), ostelimme omenaherkkuja ja teimme vaihtokauppaa Jullen merinovillapaidalla (vaihdoimme sen yhden tiibetil\u00e4isnaisen putiikissa kahteen aurinkorasvaan). Lis\u00e4ksi p\u00e4\u00e4simme n\u00e4kem\u00e4\u00e4n Tihar-perinteit\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"645\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?resize=860%2C645&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4789\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?w=2560&amp;ssl=1 2560w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?resize=1536%2C1152&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026092607-scaled.jpg?w=1720&amp;ssl=1 1720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Marphan kattojen yll\u00e4 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111937.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4777\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tuoretta omenamehua!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/IMG20221026111502.jpg?w=860&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4761\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Kukkia Marphassa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Toivottavasti loppumatka alas Tatopaniin ja eteenp\u00e4in sujuisi paremmin, kuin miten vaellus t\u00e4ll\u00e4 puolella solaa alkoi&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Kuten sanottu, maisema Thorong La -solan toisella puolella oli kuiva ja karu, useat kyl\u00e4t keskiaikaisia ja tunnelma mystinen. Ensimm\u00e4iset pari p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4ll\u00e4 puolen sis\u00e4lsiv\u00e4t j\u00e4nnityst\u00e4 jyrkill\u00e4 kanjonin reunamilla ja v\u00e4h\u00e4n ep\u00e4onneakin. Aikaisemmat blogipostaukset vaelluksestamme Annapurnan rengasreitill\u00e4 l\u00f6yd\u00e4t t\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4: P\u00e4iv\u00e4 13: Muktinath (Ranipauwa) &#8211; Kagbeni Her\u00e4simme ennen kuutta (rytmi aamuher\u00e4tyksist\u00e4 oli j\u00e4\u00e4nyt p\u00e4\u00e4lle), s\u00f6imme aamupalan ja &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/annapurna-circuit-osa-4-solan-toisella-puolen-eli-muktinath-marpha\/\" class=\"read-more\">Lue lis\u00e4\u00e4<span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Annapurna circuit (osa 4): Solan toisella puolen eli Muktinath &#8211; Marpha<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4769,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_vp_format_video_url":"","_vp_image_focal_point":[],"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[231,255,20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4748","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mym","category-nepal","category-patikointi"],"translation":{"provider":"WPGlobus","version":"3.0.2","language":"gb","enabled_languages":["fi","gb"],"languages":{"fi":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"gb":{"title":false,"content":false,"excerpt":false}}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ibastergoes.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/A240841-scaled.jpg?fit=%2C&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pazqkD-1eA","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4748","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4748"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4748\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4810,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4748\/revisions\/4810"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4769"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4748"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4748"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ibastergoes.com\/gb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4748"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}